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The staircase comes first. White marble, branching left and right, under painted ceilings and gilded balconies. People stop halfway up just to look around. You haven't even found your seat, and the evening has already begun.
The Palais Garnier opened in 1875, designed by the architect Charles Garnier, and it remains home to the Paris Opera Ballet. If you've watched the series L'Opéra and wondered what it feels like to sit in that red-and-gold hall, here's how to make your first visit a slow, unforgettable one.
Before you go
1. Choose a classic for your first time. A story ballet, like Giselle or Swan Lake, is easier to follow than a contemporary program, and the music carries you even if you miss a detail. 2. Read the story beforehand. Two minutes is enough. Knowing the plot lets you watch the dancers instead of trying to work out who's who. 3. Book early, or look for last-minute releases. Seats vary enormously, and even the high, partial-view places give you the atmosphere of the hall. 4. Dress for yourself. There's no strict dress code. Many people dress up a little because the building invites it. Comfortable shoes still matter: there are a lot of stairs.
When you arrive
Come early. Walk up the Grand Staircase slowly, then visit the Grand Foyer, a long gallery of mirrors and gold that looks like a smaller Hall of Mirrors. Inside the auditorium, look up: the ceiling was painted by Marc Chagall in 1964, a swirl of color around the great chandelier, filled with scenes from famous operas and ballets.
During the performance
Don't try to understand everything. Let the music lead. Choose one dancer and follow them for a while. Notice the silence of the hall in the quietest moments, two thousand people holding their breath together. If your mind drifts, come back to the movement, the way you'd come back to your breath.
Afterwards
Don't rush to the metro. Walk a little. Let the music stay with you. Write down one image you want to remember: a leap, a costume, the light on the stage.
More evenings like this
The Digital subscription is made for people who love these nights: recommendations on ballet, opera, theater, music and books, at least one video each month, photo stories and the digital edition of "(meditating) On Art". So your next evening out is never far away.
Remember to take as much time as you need, and meet me at the next one.
Love, Evi